Find the Best Cold Saw Blade for Your Material and Saw

Choosing the right cold saw blade depends on the material you're cutting, the hardness, the shape (tube, bar, or structural), and the type of saw you’re using (manual cold saw, semi-automatic, or dry cut saw). Use this guide to find the best blade for your application — and get professional recommendations based on your setup.

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Cold Saw Blades for Mild Steel

Mild steel is the most commonly cut material with cold saws. It’s relatively soft compared to stainless steel or hardened alloys, but using the wrong blade or RPM can still cause glazing, fast dulling, or poor cut quality. Choosing the correct blade based on your saw type ensures clean cuts, long blade life, and higher productivity.

Manual / Semi-Auto Cold Saws

Tip: Run your cold saw at 90-185 surface feet per minute (SFPM) for mild steel. Lower SFPM for thick solids, higher SFPM for thin tubing or shapes. Use our Cold Saw SFPM to RPM Calculator here.

Dry Cut Metal Saws (Evolution, Makita, DeWalt, etc.) 1,200-1,800 RPM

  • Recommended Blade: 14" Dry Cut Mild Steel Blade (choose 72T for thicker material, 90T for thinner tubing) - Although less common, we do have 12" diameter available also.
  • See Dry Cut Metal Saw Blades

Tip: Dry cut saws operate at much higher RPMs and require specialized carbide-tipped blades. Do not use HSS cold saw blades on these machines. If you aren't sure whether you have a dry cut metal saw, learn more here.

What RPM should I use when cutting mild steel?

RPM is determined by the surface feet per minute (SFPM) and the diameter of the blade. Aim for 90–185 SFPM depending on material thickness. Thicker solids need slower RPM; thin tubing can use faster RPM. Use our Cold Saw SFPM to RPM Calculator to find your exact RPM here.

Should I use a coated blade for mild steel?

Standard M2 blades work great for mild steel. Upgrading to a TiN coated blade offers some additional heat resistance, which can extend blade life slightly in high-volume applications.

How long does a cold saw blade last cutting mild steel?

Blade life typically ranges from 1,000 to 2,000 cuts depending on your saw maintenance, material thickness, and proper RPM settings. Always resharpen blades before heavy dulling to extend blade life.

Still not sure which blade you need? Contact Us or Browse All Cold Saw Blades.

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Cold Saw Blades for Stainless Steel

Stainless steel is harder and more abrasive than mild steel, which means it wears down blades faster and generates more heat during cutting. Choosing the right blade material and maintaining proper surface speed (SFPM) is critical for clean cuts, long blade life, and minimal work hardening of the material.

Manual / Semi-Auto Cold Saws

Tip: Recommended cutting speed is 50–130 SFPM depending on wall thickness and grade. Lower SFPM for thick solids or 316 stainless; higher SFPM for thin-wall 304 tube. Use our SFPM to RPM Calculator here.

Dry Cut Metal Saws (Evolution, Makita, DeWalt, etc.)

Tip: Most dry cut saws spin at 1,300–1,800 RPM. Using a blade not rated for stainless can result in overheating or poor performance. Learn how to identify if you have a dry cut saw here.

Can I use an M2 blade for cutting stainless?

You can, but M35 cobalt blades are highly recommended for stainless. They offer up to twice the life and better resistance to heat and glazing, especially when cutting harder grades like 316.

Should I use a coated blade for stainless steel?

Yes. A TiAlN coating is the most effective for stainless because it increases wear resistance and reduces heat at the cutting edge. It’s especially useful in semi-automatic saws or high-volume applications.

What RPM should I run when cutting stainless?

Cutting speed should be 50–130 SFPM depending on the material and blade size. Use our calculator to convert that into RPM based on your saw and blade diameter. Use the SFPM to RPM Calculator here.

Still not sure which blade you need? Contact Us or Browse All Cold Saw Blades.

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Cold Saw Blades for Aluminum

Aluminum and other non-ferrous metals require a different blade design than steel. Aluminum is softer, but it can gum up the blade if too many teeth or the wrong geometry are used. Choosing the correct blade will result in clean, fast cuts without clogging, excessive wear, or material burring.

Manual / Semi-Auto Cold Saws

Tip: HSS blades perform well for cutting aluminum on manual and semi-automatic cold saws where surface speeds typically range between 400–1,000 SFPM. Carbide tipped blades require at least 2,125 SFPM to perform correctly, which most cold saws cannot achieve. Use our SFPM to RPM Calculator here.

Dry Cut Metal Saws (Evolution, Makita, DeWalt, etc.)

Tip: Dry cut saws spin the blade between 1,300–1,800 RPM and require a non-ferrous tooth geometry to avoid grabbing, denting, or heavy burring. Learn more about dry cutting aluminum here.

Woodworking Saws / Production Extrusion Saws (FOM, PMI, Elumatec, CTD, Pistorius, etc.)

Tip: Both carbide tipped blades and HSS bright blades can be used on high-speed woodworking saws and production aluminum extrusion saws. Choosing the correct blade depends on the thickness of the material. For solid or heavy-wall extrusions, always use a carbide tipped blade to ensure clean cuts and prevent blade damage. For thin, delicate aluminum profiles such as screen door frames, window frames, downspouts, roll-formed shapes, and other fragile non-ferrous extrusions, a thinner kerf HSS bright blade is ideal. These blades can be used on all standard woodworking saws including radial arm saws, table saws, chop saws, and double miter saws.

Can I use a steel-cutting blade to cut aluminum?

Yes, but it comes at a cost. Steel blades have different tooth geometries and are prone to clogging when cutting aluminum. For best results and blade life, always use a blade designed specifically for non-ferrous metals.

Do I need to use coolant when cutting aluminum?

Coolant is not mandatory, but it significantly improves cut quality and extends blade life. Flood coolant or mist is highly recommended on manual and semi-automatic cold saws. Using a wax stick lubricant is usually preferred on high RPM woodworking saws.

What RPM should I use to cut aluminum?

Aluminum cutting usually requires a much faster SFPM (500–5,400 SFPM) compared to steel (30-500). Use our calculator to find the correct RPM based on your blade size and saw type. Access our SFPM to RPM Calculator here.

Still not sure which blade you need? Contact Us or Browse All Cold Saw Blades.

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Cold Saw Blades for Copper, Brass, and Bronze

Non-ferrous metals like copper, brass, and bronze cut very differently than steel. These materials are soft, but they can still cause blade gumming and poor finishes if the wrong blade is used. Tooth geometry and surface speed are critical to maintaining cut quality and extending blade life.

Manual / Semi-Auto Cold Saws

Tip: Use a high tooth count bright-finish blade, and avoid coatings like black oxide or TiN that can cause drag on softer metals. Target an SFPM between 300–1,200 depending on the diameter and wall thickness. Use our SFPM to RPM Calculator.

Dry Cut Metal Saws

Tip: Dry cut saws need non-ferrous-specific tooth geometry to avoid blade grabbing and chipping. A light lubricant stick or mist spray is helpful on brass or bronze to reduce chip welding and discoloration.

Woodworking and Extrusion Saws (CTD, Elumatec, Pistorius, etc.)

Tip: Use HSS bright blades for thin-walled copper tubing and delicate bronze extrusions. Use carbide tipped blades for solid brass bars or heavier bronze profiles. These blades work well on radial arm saws, chop saws, and compound miters.

Do I need to use coolant when cutting copper or brass?

Coolant isn't required, but it helps. Mist coolant or wax sticks reduce friction and prevent chip build-up, especially on dry cut or extrusion saws.

Can I use a steel blade for cutting brass?

It’s not recommended. Steel blades are not optimized for soft metals and will dull quickly or create poor finishes. Use a non-ferrous or bright finish blade instead.

What RPM should I use when cutting copper or bronze?

Target SFPM between 300 and 1,200 depending on wall thickness and blade diameter. Use our RPM Calculator here.

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Cold Saw Blades for High Nickel Alloys

Nickel-based alloys like Inconel, Hastelloy, and Monel are extremely hard and heat-resistant, making them difficult to cut without the proper blade and feed rate. These materials work harden quickly and generate intense friction, so using high-quality cobalt blades with the right coating is critical.

Manual / Semi-Auto Cold Saws

Tip: Use the lowest possible SFPM — typically between 40–90 depending on part size. TiAlN coating offers the best heat resistance and edge retention when cutting high-temp alloys. Use our SFPM to RPM Calculator.

Dry Cut Metal Saws

  • Not Recommended: Avoid using dry cut saws for high-nickel alloys.

Tip: These materials are too tough and heat-sensitive for high-RPM carbide-tipped blades. Stick with low-RPM flood-cooled machines whenever possible.

Woodworking and Extrusion Saws

  • Not Recommended: These saws run too fast for high-nickel alloys.

Tip: If your saw can’t run at slow SFPM (under 100), we do not recommend attempting to cut high nickel alloys. Consider a band saw or specialized equipment.

Can I cut Inconel or Hastelloy with a cold saw?

Yes — but only if you’re using a cobalt blade with a TiAlN coating and a low RPM flood-cooled saw. Feed pressure must be consistent and moderate.

Why are high nickel alloys so difficult to cut?

They’re extremely hard and tend to work harden when exposed to heat or friction. This makes them destroy cutting edges quickly unless you use slow speed and proper lubrication.

What RPM should I use?

Surface speed should be 40–90 SFPM. Enter your blade size into our calculator to get an exact RPM. Use RPM Calculator here.

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Cold Saw Blades for Titanium

Titanium is notoriously difficult to cut due to its high strength-to-weight ratio, poor thermal conductivity, and tendency to work harden. It requires slow speeds, consistent feed pressure, and the best blades available — typically cobalt HSS with advanced coatings.

Manual / Semi-Auto Cold Saws

Tip: Cut titanium at an SFPM between 30–80 depending on material thickness. Use a rigid vise, clean flood coolant, and avoid feathering the cut. Use our SFPM to RPM Calculator here.

Dry Cut Metal Saws

  • Not Recommended: Do not attempt to cut titanium on a high-speed dry cut saw.

Tip: Dry cut saws run far too fast for titanium and will destroy carbide tips quickly. Blades will overheat, glaze, or chip immediately.

Woodworking and Extrusion Saws

  • Not Recommended: Titanium is not suitable for any high-RPM aluminum extrusion or woodworking saw.

Tip: Titanium must be cut on a cold saw, band saw, or CNC saw designed for extreme materials. These alloys are far too dense and reactive for light-duty equipment.

Can I cut titanium with a cold saw?

Yes, but only on a slow, flood-cooled machine using a TiAlN-coated M35 cobalt blade. Rigid clamping and consistent feed rate are essential.

What’s the best blade for titanium?

An M35 cobalt HSS blade with a TiAlN coating is ideal. It resists the intense heat and edge wear that titanium generates while maintaining a sharp cutting edge.

What RPM should I use for titanium?

Target 30–80 SFPM depending on the diameter and wall thickness. Calculate your RPM here.

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Cold Saw Blades for Hardened Steel

Hardened steels are among the most difficult materials to cut. Whether you’re working with tool steel, heat-treated alloy, or case-hardened shafting, you need a cobalt blade and very slow surface speeds. Attempting to cut hardened steel with an uncoated or M2 blade will result in immediate edge failure.

Manual / Semi-Auto Cold Saws

Tip: Run your saw at 20–60 SFPM. Use maximum clamping pressure and clean flood coolant. Never feather the feed — apply firm, steady pressure once engaged. Use our RPM Calculator here.

Dry Cut Metal Saws

  • Not Recommended: Hardened steels are too tough and abrasive for carbide blades at dry cut speeds.

Tip: Dry cut saws will chip the carbide teeth and glaze over instantly. Use a cold saw or bandsaw built for hardened materials.

Woodworking and Extrusion Saws

  • Not Recommended: These saws do not have the torque, speed control, or blade compatibility required.

Tip: Avoid using woodworking-style saws of any kind. They cannot handle the hardness or density of tool steels or hardened shafting.

What qualifies as “hardened” steel?

Any steel over 30 HRC (Rockwell) — such as tool steel, D2, heat-treated A2, hardened shafting, or high-strength wear parts. These materials require special blades and handling.

Can I use a regular cold saw blade?

No. Regular M2 blades or black oxide-coated blades will dull instantly. Use only cobalt HSS with a TiAlN coating at slow speed.

What’s the best RPM for hardened steel?

Target 20–60 SFPM depending on hardness and diameter. Use our calculator to convert to blade RPM. Use the RPM Calculator here.

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Cold Saw Blades for Pipe and Tube

Cutting pipe and tubing presents unique challenges. Thin walls can easily deform or burr if the wrong blade is used, while heavy-wall pipe requires high rigidity and slower speeds. Matching your blade to the wall thickness and material type is key for clean, efficient cuts.

Manual / Semi-Auto Cold Saws

Tip: Use a high tooth count for thin-walled material to prevent grabbing or tearing. For thicker wall pipe, lower tooth count and slower SFPM are ideal. Use our RPM Calculator here.

Dry Cut Metal Saws

  • Recommended Blade: Carbide Tipped Blade for Steel or Non-Ferrous (based on material)
  • Shop Dry Cut Blades

Tip: Use a blade designed for the specific material you’re cutting — whether it’s steel, stainless, aluminum, or copper. Secure the workpiece tightly to reduce vibration and improve finish.

Woodworking and Extrusion Saws

Tip: For copper, brass, and aluminum tubing, use a non-ferrous carbide blade or bright-finish HSS blade. Wax lubrication helps extend blade life on soft metals.

What blade is best for EMT or conduit?

A high-tooth-count M2 HSS blade (black oxide) is ideal for clean cuts without crushing the tubing.

What’s the best blade for thick-wall steel pipe?

Use a lower tooth count M2 or M35 cobalt blade and slow SFPM. If using a cold saw, ensure you have sufficient clamping pressure.

What RPM should I use for pipe or tube?

Thin wall tubing: 100–180 SFPM. Thick wall or solids: 40–100 SFPM. Use our SFPM to RPM Calculator.

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Cold Saw Blades for Solid Bar

Solid bar generates more heat and cutting pressure than tubing or profiles. Blade life depends heavily on material type (steel vs aluminum vs stainless), diameter, and feed control. Cutting solid material requires blades with fewer teeth, slower RPMs, and increased chip capacity.

Manual / Semi-Auto Cold Saws

Tip: Lower tooth count = more chip room = better for solids. Target 30–100 SFPM depending on material and diameter. Use clean coolant and maintain clamping rigidity. Use the RPM Calculator here.

Dry Cut Metal Saws

Tip: Blade must match the material — don’t use a non-ferrous blade on steel. Watch for tooth wear and avoid excessive feed pressure.

Woodworking and Extrusion Saws

  • Recommended: Carbide Tipped Blades only — avoid HSS for solids at high RPM

Tip: When cutting aluminum solids on a double miter or radial arm saw, use a carbide blade with large gullets and low hook angle. Wax lubrication is essential.

Can I use the same blade for tube and solid?

No. Tube blades typically have more teeth. Solids require fewer teeth and more chip room to avoid overheating and premature dulling. Use our tooth count calculator here.

What blade is best for cutting 1.5" round bar?

For mild steel: M2 HSS with 100–120 teeth. For stainless or hardened: M35 cobalt with TiAlN, 90–100 teeth depending on diameter. Try our tooth calculator.

What’s the ideal SFPM for solid material?

Mild steel: 60–100 SFPM. Stainless: 40–80. Aluminum: 300–800. Use RPM Calculator.

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Cold Saw Blades for Structural Shapes

Cutting structural steel like angle iron, channel, tubing frames, or I-beams requires attention to both tooth count and fixturing. These shapes often vibrate or twist during cutting, especially on manual saws. Choosing the right blade and securing the workpiece properly will reduce chipping, burring, and saw deflection.

Manual / Semi-Auto Cold Saws

Tip: Use a blade with medium tooth count (not too fine, not too coarse) to balance chip clearance and reduce vibration. Try our Tooth Calculator and SFPM to RPM Calculator

Dry Cut Metal Saws

Tip: Use a low tooth count blade to avoid grabbing on entry. Cut slowly and maintain firm material support, especially near weld seams or holes.

Woodworking and Extrusion Saws

Tip: When cutting aluminum extrusions or framing systems on a high-RPM saw, use non-ferrous specific carbide blades. Lubrication reduces galling and burrs.

What blade is best for angle iron or channel?

For steel: M2 HSS with moderate tooth count. For stainless: M35 cobalt with TiAlN. Avoid blades with too many teeth or they may chip during entry/exit.

Can I cut structural tubing with the same blade as round bar?

Possibly, but structural shapes often need more support and a slightly finer tooth count to avoid tearing at corners. Use our Tooth Calculator.

What speed should I use for I-beams or structural cuts?

Mild steel: 60–100 SFPM. Stainless: 40–80. Use the RPM Calculator.

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