Blade Guide – Cutting Stainless Steel & High Alloy Metals
Stainless steel and high alloy metals like tool steel, Inconel, and titanium are tougher, more heat-intensive, and more abrasive than mild steel. Whether you're cutting tubing or solid bar, choosing the wrong blade can lead to glazing, chipped teeth, and wasted material.
This guide walks you through the right blade — based on your saw type, material thickness, and cutting volume — so you get clean, burr-free cuts and the longest blade life possible.What Are High-Alloy Metals?
High-alloy metals are materials that contain more than 5% of alloying elements in their composition. These added elements — such as chromium, nickel, molybdenum, or vanadium — are intentionally included to improve specific mechanical or chemical properties like:
- Corrosion resistance
- Tensile strength
- Wear resistance
- Heat resistance
- Toughness
This makes high-alloy metals ideal for demanding environments — but also much harder to cut cleanly without the right blade.
🧪 Common Examples of High-Alloy Metals:
| Material | Key Alloying Elements | Common Applications |
|---|---|---|
| Stainless Steel | Chromium, often Nickel, Molybdenum | Food processing, medical, aerospace, manufacturing |
| Chromoly (4130, 4140) | Chromium, Molybdenum | Roll cages, aircraft structures, tools |
| Inconel | Nickel, Chromium, Iron | Jet engines, turbine blades, exhaust |
| Hastelloy | Nickel, Molybdenum | Chemical plants, marine equipment |
| Titanium Alloys | Titanium with Aluminum, Vanadium | Medical implants, aerospace, racing |
| Tool Steels (M2, D2) | Tungsten, Vanadium, Molybdenum | Drills, dies, cutting tools |
Why Blade Selection Is Critical
These metals are not only harder — they often work-harden when cut. That means they resist being sheared and generate significant heat at the cutting edge.
To get clean, consistent cuts and long blade life, you need:
- M35 HSS or carbide-tipped blades
- Proper grind geometry (less aggressive rake, controlled relief)
- Correct cutting speed (SFPM)
- Premium coatings like TiN or TiAlN to reduce wear and heat
How We Help at ColdSawShop.com
When you select “stainless steel” or any high-alloy material during checkout, we configure your blade's:
- Material type (M35)
- Rake & relief angle geometry
- CBN ground tooth finish
- Optional coatings based on saw type and use case
We build blades that hold up — even when your material doesn’t want to be cut.
Manual Cold Saw (Under 120 RPM)
Recommended Blade:
M35 vs. M2 — Is It Worth It?
Yes. M35 cobalt blades contain 5% cobalt for improved heat resistance and durability. On a manual saw, the performance difference is minimal in cut speed or finish — but blade life can increase up to 200%.
💡 A 350mm M2 blade may cost $149, while an M35 version runs $199 — a ~30% increase in price for double the blade life.
Coating Options:
- TiN Coating – Recommended for all stainless jobs
- TiAlN Coating – Not necessary for manual saws, but offers the best thermal stability if you're pushing the limits
Speed Tip:
Your RPM should achieve 50–130 SFPM, depending on what you're cutting:
- 50–90 SFPM for solids
- 90–130 SFPM for hollow tube
Use our SFPM-to-RPM chart to verify your machine is in the correct range.
Blade Geometry:
For cutting stainless, we use a less aggressive geometry than carbon steel blades. Manual saw blades typically feature a 12° positive rake and a 6° relief. This combination improves durability and chip control.
Semi-Automatic Cold Saw (Under 120 RPM)
Required Blade Type:
This is the Cadillac of stainless cutting. The automatic feed pressure and longer cutting cycles of semi-auto saws generate much more heat — making M35 + TiAlN a must.
Why TiAlN?
- Extreme resistance to heat and galling
- Lower friction = cleaner cuts, less burring
- Increased blade life and reliability for production setups
✅ On semi-auto saws, we strongly discourage M2 or uncoated blades for stainless. Go M35 TiAlN and thank yourself later.
Coolant Tip: Always use a water-based semi-synthetic coolant when cutting stainless on manual or semi-automatic saws. Proper coolant application is essential for blade life and cut quality.
Blade Geometry:
For semi-auto saws, we typically use a 14° positive rake and a 6° relief angle. This geometry is optimized for aggressive but controlled feed rates and better heat resistance.
Dry Cut Metal Saw (14" Only)
We offer a dedicated stainless blade for 14" dry cut saws. These run at ~1,300–1,500 RPM and must use carbide-tipped blades engineered for stainless.
⚠️ We only recommend dry cut stainless blades for 14" saws. These are specialty blades, and are not available in other sizes. These blades are engineered to run dry without additional lubrication.
Woodworking Saws (Miter, Chop, Table Saws)
Do NOT cut stainless steel on high-speed woodworking saws.
These saws spin far too fast, and stainless is too hard and heat-intensive for their construction. You will:
- Burn the blade
- Destroy the saw motor
- Risk injury
❌ We do not offer or recommend any stainless-compatible blades for woodworking saws.
Blade Selection Summary
| Saw Type | Recommended Blade | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Manual Cold Saw | TiN Coated M2 (baseline) or M35 (upgrade) | M35 = 200% life for 30% more cost |
| Semi-Auto Cold Saw | TiAlN Coated M35 Cobalt Blade | Highly recommended for production |
| Dry Cut Metal Saw (14" only) | 14" Carbide Tipped Stainless Blade | Only available size for dry cut stainless blades |
| Woodworking Saw | ❌ Not Supported | RPM too high; unsafe and ineffective |
Why Buy from ColdSawShop.com?
- 🇺🇸 USA-based small business located in Texas
- ✅ Honest recommendations — not just pushing upgrades
- ⚙️ HSS blades are made to order in Texas on German CNC equipment
- ⭐ 4.9 out of 5 star store rating